The Hidden Talents of Salt

Pepper's best buddy has many hidden talents...

Three Basic Types of Salt

Whether its obtained by mining or evaporating from seawater, salt is the same in its most basic form, sodium chloride. What distinguishes one salt from another is its texture, shape and mineral content.  These are the qualities that can affect how a salt tastes and how it interacts with foods.

Table salt is tiny, uniformly shaped crystals  that are created during a rapid vacuum evaporation procedure. All of the valuable mineral content is removed by this procedure and anti-caking agents are added to help it pour smoothly. This salt is also often iodized, which can add a slight "chemical" like flavor. I suggest avoiding table salt altogether.

Kosher salt is a coarse-grain salt that is raked during the evaporation process to produce flaky crystals. It is often used for "koshering" meats. It also has had its minerals stripped away, but does not contain any additives. Kosher salt is my top choice for seasoning meats and poultry. Kosher salt is also great to use in brines to help tenderize meats and poultry. I prefer the Morton brand.

Sea salt is the product of seawater evaporation.  It is an expensive and time consuming process. Sea salts still contain their mineral properties making them the best if you want to use a salt that has some nutritional value. The flakes are typically irregularly shaped and may vary in color. I like to use sea salts on fish and shellfish - it seems only natural to use a product of the sea to flavor the bounty of the sea!  Sea salts are also used as "finishing salt" to beautify a dish and give the dish a delicate crunch. Sea salts are often expensive.

Salting Meat

Salting proteins helps them retain their natural juices and works well for meats that are already considered to be "juicy" and well marbled. Applying the salt to the raw meat the juices inside the meat are drawn to the surface, dissolving the salt and forming a brine that is absorbed back into the meat. The best salt for this process is kosher salt. This process is more simple than the old fashioned way of brining meat and poultry in a sugar/salt/water bath and does not inhibit browning on the outside of the protein.

For steaks, lamb or pork chops apply the kosher salt evenly over the surface of the meat and let it rest for one hour at room temperature, uncovered, on a wire rack that has been placed on a regular baking sheet. (I like to line mine with foil.) You'll need about 1 teaspoon of kosher salt for every eight ounces of meat. 

For beef, lamb or pork roasts apply the kosher salt evenly over the entire surface of the meat. Next, wrap the meat tightly with plastic Saran wrap, place into a container that will hold the roast and refrigerate for a minimum of six hours. You'll need about 1 teaspoon of kosher salt per pound of meat.

For a whole chicken apply the kosher salt inside the cavity of the bird and under the skin of the breasts and legs.  Place the bird on a wire rack that has been placed on a regular baking sheet. (lined with foil) You'll need 1 teaspoon of kosher salt per pound. Allow the chicken to rest in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours. If it will be resting longer than 12 hours (up to 24 hours) you'll want to cover it with Saran wrap. For Bone-in chicken pieces with the skin on apply the kosher salt under the skin and replace the skin back over to cover the flesh. Again, place the chicken pieces on a wire rack on a baking sheet and allow the pieces to rest, refrigerated for at least 6 hours. You'll need about 3/4 of a teaspoon per pound of chicken pieces. These can sit for up to 24 hours, but cover with Saran wrap if you're going to rest them for longer than 12 hours. This will work with boneless or bone-in turkey breast. For a whole turkey, apply the kosher salt under the skin of the breasts and legs as well as inside the bird's cavity. Wrap the entire bird in Saran wrap and allow it to rest, refrigerated for a minimum of 24 hours and up to 48 hours.

Some Seasoning Tips...

• Be safe when seasoning! When seasoning raw meat, poultry or seafood, make your seasoning mix in a separate bowl to avoid contaminating your usual salt container. Mix 4 parts salt to 1 part pepper and any other dried herbs or spices you might be using in a small bowl. Discard the leftovers.
• Don't over salt! Many recipes will call for a minimal amount of salt and then tell you at he end to add more "salt to taste". This is simply the recipe writers way of preventing you from oversalting the dish.  Always taste as you go while cooking and hold back of full seasoning until the dish is complete.
• Seasoning vegetables successfully. Some recipes will ask you to toss "watery" vegetables, like tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant and certain types of squash in salt before cooking with them.  Salting these veggies seasons them and rids them of their excess moisture allowing their flavor molecules to take over. Your veggies will have a more intense and delicious flavor...so don't skip this part of the recipe!
• Experiment! Try using different types of salt for seasoning...kosher, coarse sea salt, grey salt, fleur de sel (French sea salt). You'll discover that they all have not only different levels of coarseness, but that they work and taste different as well! Have fun with it!
• When sauteing veggies such as mushrooms or onions, if you want caramelization, don't salt! The salt will draw the moisture out and the deep flavor of caramelization will never develop.
• When working with fried foods, it is best to season lightly with salt just after removing it from the fryer. The food is still hot and slightly moist at this point and the salt will cling better to the outside and slowly be absorbed into the food along with the layer of grease from the frying. (Of course, this is not the healthiest of preparations!)